Stepping into a building materials store can feel like entering a jungle gym of lumber. Stacked planks of wood loom overhead, whispering cryptic codes like "2&Btr" and "C Select." Fear not, intrepid builder! This guide will equip you with the knowledge to navigate the aisles with confidence, choosing the right lumber for your project like a seasoned pro.

These are the brawny lumberjacks of the bunch, prioritizing strength and reliability for load-bearing applications like framing, joists, and beams. Think of them as the bones of your project.

Select Structural lumber

1&Btr (1 & Better Grade)

A close runner-up, offering exceptional strength with slightly more character (read: knots). Perfect for most framing needs.

• Strength: Exceptional. This grade prioritizes strength and uses the strongest pieces of lumber.
  
  
• Appearance: Allows larger, sound knots (up to 2" diameter) and other minor imperfections. May not be suitable for exposed applications due to visual characteristics.
  
  
• Applications: Ideal for heavy-duty framing, load-bearing walls, beams, rafters, and headers. Often used in commercial construction or situations requiring maximum strength.
  
  

2&Btr (2 & Better Grade)

The workhorse of homebuilding, balancing affordability with good strength. Knots are present, but controlled.

• Strength: Very good. Offers a balance between strength and affordability.
  
  
• Appearance: Allows smaller, tighter knots (up to 1.5" diameter) and some other imperfections. Can be used for exposed applications if desired, but with a more rustic look.
  
  
• Applications: Widely used for general framing in residential construction, including walls, floors, roofs, and decks. A good choice for most framing needs where high strength is important.
  
  

Stud Grade

Specifically designed for walls and partitions, with varying strength levels (1 being the strongest).

• Strength: Varies depending on the specific sub-grade (Stud 1 being the strongest, Stud 4 being the weakest).
  
  
• Appearance: Allows wider knots (up to 2.5" diameter in Stud 1, increasing in size with lower grades) and more imperfections. Not suitable for exposed applications.
  
  
• Applications: Specifically designed for non-load-bearing walls and partitions where strength is less critical. Often used in interior walls, closets, and non-structural framing.
  
  





Appearance Grades



These are the dapper dandies of the lumber world, prioritizing aesthetics for exposed elements like trim, moldings, and furniture. Think of them as the skin of your project.





C Select Lumber

Smooth surface with minimal imperfections, ideal for painted or stained finish work. The smoothest and cleanest of the appearance grades, featuring minimal defects like small knots, slight discoloration, and minimal wane. Ideal for trim, moldings, cabinetry, and furniture where a flawless painted or stained finish is desired. High-end, exposed applications like crown molding or built-in bookshelves benefit greatly from this grade. Requires less preparation and sanding for finishing due to its smooth surface. Can be slightly more expensive than other appearance grades.





D Select Lumber

Similar to C Select, but with a touch more rustic charm (larger knots). Great for rustic or painted applications. Features larger and more prominent knots, some sapwood, and potential wane. Great for creating a more traditional or rustic aesthetic in furniture, paneling, exposed beams, or decorative elements. Think farmhouse tables, barn doors, or reclaimed wood projects. Adds visual interest and character to projects. May require more filling or sanding to achieve a smooth finish due to the knots.





No. 1 Common Lumber

A sturdy option with a more natural look, featuring larger knots and wane. Perfect for paneling, shelving, or hidden areas. Offers a balance between aesthetics and affordability. Features larger knots, wane on edges, and potential warping or checking. Perfect for shelving, paneling, exposed framing in rustic settings, or hidden areas like basements or attics. Can be used for furniture with a more "live edge" or natural look. Requires more preparation and finishing due to the imperfections. Can be a cost-effective option for large projects where a flawless finish is not crucial.





No. 2 Common Lumber

The most affordable, with plenty of knots and imperfections. Best for rough construction or hidden applications, featuring numerous knots, wane, potential cracks, and warping. Primarily used for rough construction like framing, blocking, or temporary structures. Not recommended for exposed applications due to its appearance. The least expensive but requires the most effort for finishing or hiding imperfections.





Beyond Wood: Plywood Grades

Plywood, the superhero made from layers of glued wood veneer, also has its own grading system.

AC Plywood

The workhorse, featuring a smooth A-grade face for painting or finishing and a C-grade back for hidden areas.

Face: A-grade veneer - This is the highest quality veneer, with a smooth, sanded surface free of knots or holes. It is ideal for painting or staining and is often used for applications where appearance is important, such as furniture, cabinets, and trim.

Back: C-grade veneer - This veneer may have some knots, holes, and other imperfections, but they are generally small and tight. The C-grade back is not intended to be seen and is often used for hidden applications.

BB Plywood

Both sides have B-grade surfaces, making it perfect for rough construction or hidden applications.

Face and Back: B-grade veneer - Both sides of BB plywood have B-grade veneers, which means they may have some minor imperfections such as small knots, holes, and repairs. However, the imperfections are generally smaller and less noticeable than those found on C-grade plywood. BB plywood is a good choice for rough construction applications where the plywood will not be seen, such as subflooring, wall sheathing, and roof decking.

CC Plywood

The most economical option, with both sides being C-grade. Ideal for temporary structures or applications where strength is paramount.

Face and Back: C-grade veneer - Both sides of CC plywood have C-grade veneers, which means they may have more noticeable imperfections such as larger knots, holes, and repairs. CC plywood is the most economical option, but it is not suitable for applications where appearance is important. It is often used for temporary structures, such as concrete forms, or for applications where strength is the primary concern, such as subflooring in attics or crawl spaces.

Tips for Lumberyard Mastery



Grade variations

Lumber grades can vary slightly between species and regions. Always check the specific grading rules for your project. When in doubt, consult a lumberyard professional. Their expertise can save you time and money.





Mix and match

Don't be afraid to mix and match grades! Choose high-quality lumber for critical areas and save money with lower grades for hidden elements.





Beyond grades

Consider factors like moisture content and treatment when choosing lumber.



Understanding lumber grades empowers you to make informed choices, avoid costly mistakes, and build with confidence. So, grab your toolbox, embrace the language of lumber, and conquer that building materials store like a true DIY hero!